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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.